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It wasn't until we got to the last line of the show notes (hours after the event) that we knew we'd been present at Nicole Farhi's 30th anniversary London Fashion Week show. There were no balloons, no fanfare, just business as usual. This season Farhi took inspiration from artists of the Viennese Secession movement and French art nouveau such as Gustav Klimt, and so her A/W12 base palette of grey was lifted with Klimt-esque acidy chartreuse and warm copper. Contrary to her bohemian influences the collection had an austere feel, with high necks (including gaping funnel necks, tight polo necks and button-up shirts), on-the-knee hems, and sharp masculine lines. Even the sequins were rectangular cut with a matte finish to subdue their garish glean and as a result they discreetly shimmered alongside rich laminated jacquards. Yes, it was business as usual at the Nicole Farhi show - and for Farhi that is creating one of the London's most consistently immaculate collections.
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